Begin before eight, when the shutters of Johari Bazaar are still half down and the gold is being weighed in the cool of the morning.
By noon the gem streets behind the bazaar are at full pitch — emeralds from Zambia cut by families who have cut them for four generations, sold across a folded paper on a wooden desk.
End in a courtyard. Ours, if you like. There is chai, and there is usually something on the bench worth seeing.
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